Ensure the floor is thoroughly prepared and the underlay is in place. Then, starting at the left-hand corner of the wall where the door is, lay the first piece of laminate with its tongue edge against the wall.
Move the board slightly so you can insert the necessary spacers between the board and both walls, in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Line the next board up with the end of the first and press down to click it into position, maintaining the expansion gap to the wall with spacers. Continue along the wall until you can’t lay any more full boards, ensuring the line of boards is perfectly straight.
To fill the gap at the end of a row, lay a full board down parallel with your previous row. Flip the board end-over-end so it is upside down with the groove edge still facing you but the other end touching the end wall spacers.
Use a try square and pencil to mark a cutting guide line parallel with the end of the previous board.
Secure the board in your workbench and then cut with a jigsaw or panel saw. Place the cut piece into position to complete the first row.
If the offcut is at least 300mm long, use it to start the next row from the same end of the room as you started your first row. Otherwise, start the row with a new board sawn in half. Make sure that the joint between boards in adjoining rows is always offset by at least 300mm.
Put a spacer into position against the wall then place the tongue edge of a new board into the groove edge of the previous row, at a 20-30° angle. Make sure the end of the board is butted up against the wall spacers.
Line the next board up, so the tongue is joining the groove of the previous board at 20-30°. Press down to click into position. Continue to lay the row as described above.
If you need to fill a gap between your board and the door, measure the distance between the outer edge of the architrave on either side. Then, measure the gap between the first row and the door. Mark these measurements onto a board and cut it to size. Remember to allow for a 10-12mm expansion gap at each end.
Lay the board up against the architrave and mark where you need to trim the ends so that the board will be able to slide under the architrave. If you are laying your boards vertically, you’ll need to do this to all the boards that come into contact with the architrave.
Cut along the guide marks with a jigsaw or panel saw. Then, slide the first two rows of boards back from the doorway and join the piece of board you’ve cut.
Carefully slide everything back into position so the leading board fits underneath the architrave. Then continue to lay the subsequent rows of laminate as described above.
If you need to cut boards to fit the gap in the final row, rotate the panel 180°, so the tongue faces the wall. Then, measure the gap you need to fill, not forgetting space for expansion gaps. Once the panel is cut, lay as normal.
The method is very similar to Rapid Fit other than the locking mechanism. For Twin Clic flooring, boards in the same row are joined end to end by inserting them at 20-30° angles into the connection slot, then clicking them down into position.
Assemble the whole of the next row, including making any necessary cuts, before connecting any boards to the previous row.
With the angle of the new row at 20-30° to the previous one, click the edge locking connections into position. It’s best to ask a friend to help with this.
Lay the board to the side of the pipe and, using a tri-square, draw a pencil line onto the board to show where the centre of the pipe is. Include an additional 20mm on top of the pipe diameter to allow for expansion.
Next, move the board so it is front on to the pipe and draw a line to mark where the centre of the pipe is. Where the two lines intersect is where the centre of the pipe will be positioned.
Secure the board with clamps and use a drill and 32mm flat wood drill bit to drill a hole where the two lines intersect.
Using a straight edge, draw a pair of lines from the edges of the hole to the edge of the board, each at a slight outward angle. Cut along these lines with a jigsaw or panel saw to create a wedge-shaped offcut.
Fit the board into position then apply grab adhesive to the contact areas of the offcut to hold in place between the pipe and the wall. Trim the profile with a chisel if need be. Hide the expansion gap with a pipe surround and secure as per manufacturer's instructions.
Be sure to choose a threshold bar that is suitable for your flooring. Carefully measure the width of the door frame, allowing for a 10-12mm expansion gap on both sides. Then cut the threshold bar to size.
If the threshold bar needs to be cut to shape to sit flush with the frame, carefully mark out notches at either end and cut with a hacksaw. Secure the threshold bar in place as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Before you refit the door, it’s likely you will need to slightly trim the bottom of the door to accommodate the height of the threshold, board and underlay.
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If you removed the original skirting, and it is thick enough to cover the expansion gap, reinstall it now. Alternatively, remove all the spacers, trim down any membrane to just below laminate height, then measure the lengths of flooring trim you need.
Use grab adhesive to fix the flooring trim to the skirting. If necessary, you can hold the trim in place with panel pins whilst the adhesive dries. Do not fix the trim to the laminate floor as this will prevent expansion.
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